FORDBOYpete
Moderator
Joined: 21 Mar 2009
Posts: 16
Location: East Central FL - USA
|
 Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 2:30 am Post subject: Pulling a 3.0 Aerostar Engine up and out from the front |
 |
|
4X4 Aero
I've examined pulling Aero Engines out the front & determined it's not the best way to remove Aerostar engines. Especially 4.0L V-6 + AOD+AWD.
I pull Aero engines by the book which is truly easier & so much less time consuming for me, in my opinion. Either way everything must be totally disconnected. So that part is the same. But transmission, hood, structural part of Van's support core and a lot of other things have to be removed. It also requires partial disassembly of the engine as well as the power train & body structure too. Not my Idea of a great way to spend a day.
Here is a photo essay & brief text of removing an engine out the front.
http://www3.webng.com/JTHill/
It shows the crankcase off, transmission off, and top Intake should be taken off, plus exhaust system, fuel system, wiring, vacuum lines, cables, heater hoses and everything ancillary to the engine has to be removed.
By the book, ancillary lines, linkage, wires, hoses etc and the Drive line is removed also but the transmission stays on the engine and engine stays in tact until it's clear & away from vehicle. It's really tight for vision, work space tool room, clearance & hand/ arm space in a Aerostar engine bay or compartment. I mean it's a "Really very very tough to work in" sort of space.
But the difference comes when you need not diamantle any of the Aero's body parts, like hood, hood prop rod, top radiator support reinforcement bar, battery, air filter housing, bumper, grille, condenser, radiator, ATF oil cooler assembly and so forth.
Admittedly you must chain front springs & upper control arms to keep coil springs compressed, but not a big deal. You also must un bolt the 6 large bolts hold "K" frame to front chassis rails on body & front brake lines will need to be dieconnected too.
BUT after I do that, I yank my front wheels & lower entire van down until K member rests on a large, low,dolly. I Block engine+trans+"K" member so it is stable, then using a common engine crane, I pick the front of body up high enough to roll the entire, complete power train out from under the Aero. I place tall 3 Ton jack stands at torque boxes at rear of front wheel openings to safely keep body high, clear & elevated.
I do not think a 4.0L will come out the front. I know an AWD set up is only coming out as "Henry" says to do it in his service & repair manual.
Having said this, I yank an average, complete, 3.0L or 4.0L power train in 4.5 - 5.0 hours regardless if it's a AWD or a RWD. I will confess or admit, those Aerostars with Rear Air & Heat, or particularily rusty ones will take longer depending on severity of rusting and other adverse variables.
Manuals show done on a contact lift in a equipped work bay. However Not everybody has a contact lift or an equipped work bay. But most people have access to at least a Garage, Engine Crane & tall Jack stands. There is no way to angle an engine crane or a chain fall into an Aero Engine Bay enough to make 1 easy "pick" or lift. It has got to take jugling & switching & moving things around to actually pull an engine up, out and away. Not a one fell swoop deal at all. . . .
I have only removed a handfull of Aero engines. I have cut away Aero bodies from around their engine.... ugly & messy.
I have lifted a body off the "K" frames with a michigan loader, ruined the body, it was no prize worth saving.
But in my "home shop" I do it as I said above & it gets easier & easier every time I do one. In fact that 95 green Aero in my old picture post was elevated & wheeless because we stripped everything from both it's drive & powertrains out of it from underneath. 
CIAO 
FBp 
_________________
"Everybody has to believe in something. So I believe I'll have another Beer. " W.C. Fields - early twentieth century |
|
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Join! (free) 
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
